On 1/23, after just a few hours of sleep, we left Vienna, Austria for Berlin, Germany, our final destination. We took off later than planned because we met a very interesting man at breakfast: a British citizen, who lives (by choice) in a remote village in Eastern Europe and just got electricity in his house. Asked why he chose this path, he said it'd be hard to explain how living in the country reduces one's stress level and gets one in touch with what is essential... Toli was surprised to find a kindred soul in Vienna. But we had to move on. We got on the wrong U-Bahn line, had to wait for the less-frequent S-Bahn (fast train; S is for Schnell though they are not at all fast within city limits) but eventually we made it on time...

... and many hours later we were greeted by Uschi (Ursula) Eitner and her boyfriend Michael in Berlin. A warm welcome, warm hospitality, warm home, but a very cold Berlin where the temperature dropped to -10 Celsius (14 Fahrenheit). Nevertheless, we had a blast getting a private tour of Berlin by car (with heated seats) by two wonderful and knowledgeable locals, as well as many a care-free walk on Kurfürstendamm (Berlin's Rodeo Drive). On our last day, despite Toli's reluctance to spend another day indoors, we went to the Pergamon museum which Christine repeatedly praised... in the end, Toli decided that yet again he should trust his wife: it was a very unusual museum in its approach of reconstrucing large ancient structures indoors. And it was heated.

1/24
Nollendorfplatz
Christine does her Sailor Moon impression in front of Roman-Boutique, a comics and anime store. The Sailor Moon life-size doll is in the store window.

1/24
Nollendorfplatz
Sailor Moon in the store window. A rare instance where Toli actually enjoyed window-shopping.

1/24
KaDeWe (Kaufhaus des Westens) (Department Store of the West)
In Berlin's largest department store, the mannequins in the bath department are dressed like Japanese geishas by creatively combining regular bath robes and bath towels.

1/24
KaDeWe
The Japanesque mannequins.

1/24
KaDeWe
The Japanesque mannequins.

1/24
Downtown
Crows are black
Pigeons are gray
Sugar is sweet my dove
We'll have a baby in May

1/24
Kurfürstendamm
After watching Cats in Prague, we see a sign for Cats in Berlin!

1/24
Kurfürstendamm
After watching Cats in Prague, we see a sign for Cats in Berlin!

1/24
Kurfürstendamm
Another deeply inspiring quote by Dubya (George Bush), courtesy of the Schaubühne theater: "I know the human being and fish can coexist peacefully." Sounds more like Japanese Engrish to me.

1/24
A-Trane Jazz-Club, Bleibtreustrasse
Julie (Uschi's friend), Christine, and Uschi enjoy Cuban music.

1/25
Potsdamer Platz
Christine, Toli, and Uschi in front of the oldest stoplight in Europe.

1/25
Potsdamer Platz
Uschi, Christine, and Michael in front of the Sony complex.

1/25
Deutsches Historisches Museum (German Historical Museum)
Christine looks out on the spacious lobby, redesigned by architect I.M. Pei.

1/25
Deutsches Historisches Museum
Christine looks out on the spacious lobby, redesigned by architect I.M. Pei.

1/25
Deutsches Historisches Museum
The lobby: Christine (panorama).

1/25
Deutsches Historisches Museum
The lobby: Christine.

1/25
Deutsches Historisches Museum
The lobby (panorama).

1/25
Deutsches Historisches Museum
The lobby (panorama).

1/25
Deutsches Historisches Museum
The hallway behind the arch.

1/25
Deutsches Historisches Museum
Christine and Toli on the stairway.

1/25
Deutsches Historisches Museum
Christine and Toli on the stairway.

1/25
Deutsches Historisches Museum
A view of the building across the street, which used to serve as an old German armory. This is why the statues on top are just hollow armor, without a face or arms.

1/25
Deutsches Historisches Museum
Michael and Christine.

1/25
Kunstsupermarkt (Art Supermarket), Quartier 205 on Friedrichstrasse
A painting of a lesbian Playmobil figurine.

1/26
Checkpoint Charlie, Friedrichstrasse
Christine is now entering the American Sector.

1/26
Checkpoint Charlie, Friedrichstrasse
Christine is now entering the American Sector.

1/27
East Berlin
The Tschibo logo. Toli's first impression was that this was a sperm bank because the logo looked like a floating sperm to him.

1/27
West Berlin
The Oberbaumbrücke (Over-the-Tree Bridge) running across the half-frozen Spree river.

1/27
Near Oberbaumbrücke, West Berlin
Christine on the bank of the Spree river, with a section of the Berlin wall behind her.

1/27
Oberbaumbrücke
The half-frozen Spree river.

1/27
East Side Gallery, Mühlen Strasse
Christine at the longest remaining section of the Berlin Wall.

1/27
East Side Gallery, Mühlen Strasse
Christine at the longest remaining section of the Berlin Wall.

1/27
East Side Gallery, Mühlen Strasse
Toli in front of a portion of the Wall stating, "Es Gilt Viele Mauern Abzu Bauen." (There are still many walls to bring down.)

1/27
East Side Gallery, Mühlen Strasse
A Chagall-esque painting on the Wall, which reminded Toli of the ceiling of the Paris Opera.

1/27
Ostbahnhof (East Train Station)
An authentic Greek Salad served at... a Berlin McDonald's!

1/27
Endlos Cafe, Kollwitzplatz, Prenzlauer Berg
Christine enjoys one last coffee and dessert at a cafe.

1/27
Endlos Cafe, Kollwitzplatz, Prenzlauer Berg
A beautiful painting of waltzers, reminiscent of our Viennese Ball experiences.

1/27
Endlos Cafe, Kollwitzplatz, Prenzlauer Berg
Christine.

1/27
The b-flat acoustic music and jazz club, on Rosenthaler Strasse near Weinmeisterstrasse
Christine in the doorway of her old swing-dancing haunt.

1/27
The b-flat acoustic music and jazz club, on Rosenthaler Strasse near Weinmeisterstrasse
Christine in the doorway of her old swing-dancing haunt.

1/27
Hackescher Hof (court)
Christine does her East Berlin Ampelmann (Traffic light man) walk in one of the courtyards.

1/27
Hackescher Hof
Christine does her East Berlin Ampelmann walk in one of the courtyards.

1/27
Restaurant Marché, Kurfürstendamm
Another dancing painting at the Marché buffet restaurant, where we had dinner.

1/28
Uschi's flat, Charlottenburg
A new (relative to Christine's last visit) space for Uschi - her olive-wood dining area. In the background, Christo's posters from the Wrapped Reichstag project... they are signed by the artist as a thank-you to Uschi.

1/28
Uschi's flat, Charlottenburg
The modern kitchen (with art a-la Uschi) in a historical flat.

1/28
Uschi's flat, Charlottenburg
The living room.

1/28
Uschi's flat, Charlottenburg
A painting of Uschi's mother - the family resemblance is strong.

1/28
Uschi's flat, Charlottenburg
The brightly-lit office space.

1/28
U-Bahn
A tired Toli and his aching back take a rest in the "disabled passengers" area on the U-Bahn.

1/28
U-Bahn
Just give Toli a few more years, and he'll be just like this elderly passenger (only grumpier).

1/28
Uschi's flat, Charlottenburg
Michael, Christine, Uschi, and Toli.

1/28
Uschi's flat, Charlottenburg
Michael, Christine, Uschi, and Toli get silly on-camera.